I'd trickle it up rubbing my thumb and finger dropping the flakes that stick then use the powder trickler. If I dropped to much into the pan, dump it start over, under I'd trickle it up. I would drop a pinch, a pinch being powder from a bowl pinched between my thumb and index finger. It was a bit slow and tedious getting the powder charge right. Loading for it won't be a problem, I have what I need except for some way to throw those tiny charges.Been a long time, more years than I want to think about. Looks like it'll be a fun little toy when I get to it. Looking at it, it may not be as old as I thought either as it has some kind of transfer bar in it, the hammer won't push the firing pin where it would hit the primer unless the trigger is pulled all the way back.įor the price, I'm not out much, but I don't want to blow it up. What kind of loads would work in this OK? I'm guessing about 1.5 grain of Bullseye? I understand top breaks are inherently weaker, but this one is as strong as it ever was I'm sure. 32 short brass stashed away someplace in all my stuff and also a mold for a light bullet designed for the. Happenned on a pretty nice blued one today with no pitting, good grips and bore for $75. Usually shops want upwards of $200 for ones that have broken grips, pitting, nickel plating peeling etc. 32s and have been eyeballing these when they turn up. In the case of old firearms, cleaning should be limited to preventing more rust by wiping it with an oily cloth.I must admit to having a thing for top break revolvers and never had one. When one removes such after it has happened, it does not fool an expert, and it does devalue the item. Old things typically take on a patina or have a typical deterioration pattern. When you try to make something look better by cleaning or restoring it you often devalue it significantly. With old, collectible things one is ill advised to do any cleaning beyond what would have been normal daily maintenance. This has been said many times before, but is worth repeating. Since Evapo-Rust is advertised to remove the Iron from iron oxides and turn it into a water soluble Iron Sulphate it will likely remove any bluing as well as red rust. A uniform coating of dense ferric oxide helps to prevent the formation of the undesirable, porous, crumbly red rust or ferrous oxide. The bluing rust is black ferric oxide rather than red ferrous oxide. Second, firearms bluing (or browning) is actually a controlled rusting process. If you remove it all, you leave noticeable pits. Often the apparent surface rust that has been allowed to grow on firearms has actually eaten somewhat deeply into (below) the surface of the steel. First, this material will eat all of the rust out and leave pitting behind. I see two likely problems when used on firearms. The manufacturer's info states that it works by freeing the Iron from rust (ferrous oxide for red ruist) and then turning the free iron into a water soluble Iron Sulfate. I do not think that one would want to put this material on any blued steel. I have just read Evapo-Rust's webpage material that explains how it works, chemically. I am somewhat familiar with the use of Phosphoric acid and Hot Sulfuric acid for dissolving rust and other metal oxides. It is likely a good product for its intended uses that do not likely include rust removal from valuavle firearms. Obviously, I have not tried or used it, yet. I was unaware of this product until just now. Relative to StephenCD's remark and question about a product called "Evapo-Rust":
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